My most authentic experience so far was a day trip from Buenos Aires to Tigre’ (30km N of Buenos Aires). It’s along the Parana Delta and the locals flock there during the summer for vacation, a weekend getaway, or even a day trip.
I went with Kelly from Vancouver, who I met at my B&B in Santiago. We met up again in Buenos Aires and hung together for a few days.
Although not far away, it took 3 modes of transportation to finally get to a little island (there are many in Tigre). Metro to train station, then train to Tigre (50 minute ride), then wait for a ferry to go to one of the many islands in Tigre. Doesn’t sound like a long trip, but from the time we got on the metro to the time we stepped foot on an island, a bit over 3 hours had passed. WHEW.
We randomly picked Tres Bocas, an island that has restaurants. There’s one path around the island, so when you land, you can either go right or left. There’s a canal-ish, brown body of water that we’re walking along (actually the whole delta is brownish). It’s very tropical - ginger plants, palms, insects, but also things I haven’t seen in a tropical environment - pine trees and hydrangeas.
It’s after 1pm, it’s hot, it’s humid, I’m sweating like a pig, and I’m thirsty. After walking 10-15 minutes, there’s a sign for canoe rentals at what looks like somebody’s house. There’s a dog on the dock, which I stop to pet, and a woman appears from the front yard. I say hola and look towards the house...wondering if they sell any drinks. I ask if they have beer and she says yes...don’t need to twist my arm - we’re stopping here.
Well.....4 hours later, we’re still there. Turns out they (Ines and Julian) built a summer house and also have 2 small cabanas for rent or you can pitch a tent in the yard. And they rent canoes. Ines invites us in, gives us a tour of her house and studio (she paints) and makes us feel very welcome.
We drink a huge beer (1 liter), then another, then she invites us to stay for an asado. There’s a HUGE pile of meat ready to be put on the grill. We meet others who are staying there; have stopped by for the day; or are friends of theirs.
A couple hours later and more huge beers, then one of the guests carves one of the massive pieces of meat and is placing a piece on everybody’s plate. As soon as we finish that piece, he moves onto cutting the next piece and serves us more, and this keeps going until all of the meat is gone. There’s ONE bell pepper (they don’t eat many veggies here) and some potatoes. A basic salad, some bread, cheese...and more beer.
It was a day of hanging out with the locals. It was like hanging out with friends at the river. Ines in her black bikini and Julian in his swim trunks all day - you can see them in my Tigre’ pics.
The journey home wasn’t as pleasant. The train was packed and the number of people waiting for the next train was massive, so we decided to wait for a few more trains to pass. Ok, another beer and papas fritas.
Finally got on a train around 9:30pm and if it weren’t for the family with strollers in front of us, I’m pretty sure my face would be smashed into somebody’s armpit...or pretty close to it. So yes, standing the whole way back. More than half way home and we smell burning rubber....and smell it, and smell it. We’re saying that it would be horrible to live in whatever city we were in and that smell couldn’t be good for the people.
We’re approaching a train station, the doors open and EVERYBODY EXITS THE TRAIN. Not in a casual way either - like a mass exodus. THE TRAIN IS ON FIRE. No wonder it smelled! So, more waiting for another train.
By the time we get to Buenos Aires, it’s 10:31...how do I know that - because the subway stops running at 10:30pm. Really, in a city that doesn’t start eating dinner until 10 or 11, the subway stops at 10:30. Geez. Ok, gotta figure out which bus will get us close to home. Finally got to my B&B at 11pm.
CRAZY ending to a really FUN day.
Monday, March 12, 2012
Thursday, March 1, 2012
WHERE'S THE WINE???
Not so easy to find wine tasting in Santiago. Wineries yes, tasting rooms no. You need a reservation for most of them and a car to get there.
Four days of tasting, 3 different ways - (1) bike & wine tour to 3 wineries, (2) metro & taxi to 2 wineries, and (3) winery restaurant. Many of the wineries opened in the 1990’s, so they’re still fairly new.
Bike & wine....for some reason I only ride a bike when in a foreign country. We rode on hardpack rock/dirt roads (DUSTY) and visited 3 wineries in the Maipo Valley. At Huelquen, we met the owner/winemaker and he poured a 2003 cabernet sauvignon, which is old considering most of the restaurants are serving 2010 and 2011 wines. That 2003 runs $36, which seemed pricey for the quality.
Day 2 - Hopped on the metro for about an hour or so, then taxi to Concha y Toro, which is the 2nd largest winery in the world. Their top label is Don Melchor and a 2008 cab runs about $114. I had a glass with lunch - definitely not worth that money. They have the tasting room thing down - $16 for a tour and 2 skimpy tastes....hordes of people go through there.
Day 3 - again via metro to Cousino Macul a medium size winery (per their description) which produces 5 million bottles annually and exports 65% of their production. Their top end label Lota is $120 which has been produced since 2004, and they only make 9,000 bottles/year. Of that, only 140 get exported to the US. I doubt it’s worth it.
Lastly, happened up a restaurant owned or run by Miguel Torres winery. I talked them into letting me do a flight of 3 cabs and 3 carmenere’s. Although much more expensive than the wine tours, much more enjoyable - tasting 3 of their labels side by side for each varietal. They were generous with the wine - a free taste of their new sparkling rose and a heavy handed pour of their late harvest reisling. Plus 2 glasses of wine with my tapas lunch. Definitely needed a nap after that outing. My fav there was their Cordillera label, 2007 blend of 50% carmenere, 35% merlot, 15% petit verdot, but at over $50/bottle - not worth it. Would rather have me some Anarchy!
For my palate, all of the wines are very flat on the finish. For the most part, they remind me of table wine and the price is also along those lines, $7 - $12. Hard for me to imagine paying for the high priced wines here.
New pics are on my site - enjoy.
Ciao!
Four days of tasting, 3 different ways - (1) bike & wine tour to 3 wineries, (2) metro & taxi to 2 wineries, and (3) winery restaurant. Many of the wineries opened in the 1990’s, so they’re still fairly new.
Bike & wine....for some reason I only ride a bike when in a foreign country. We rode on hardpack rock/dirt roads (DUSTY) and visited 3 wineries in the Maipo Valley. At Huelquen, we met the owner/winemaker and he poured a 2003 cabernet sauvignon, which is old considering most of the restaurants are serving 2010 and 2011 wines. That 2003 runs $36, which seemed pricey for the quality.
Day 2 - Hopped on the metro for about an hour or so, then taxi to Concha y Toro, which is the 2nd largest winery in the world. Their top label is Don Melchor and a 2008 cab runs about $114. I had a glass with lunch - definitely not worth that money. They have the tasting room thing down - $16 for a tour and 2 skimpy tastes....hordes of people go through there.
Day 3 - again via metro to Cousino Macul a medium size winery (per their description) which produces 5 million bottles annually and exports 65% of their production. Their top end label Lota is $120 which has been produced since 2004, and they only make 9,000 bottles/year. Of that, only 140 get exported to the US. I doubt it’s worth it.
Lastly, happened up a restaurant owned or run by Miguel Torres winery. I talked them into letting me do a flight of 3 cabs and 3 carmenere’s. Although much more expensive than the wine tours, much more enjoyable - tasting 3 of their labels side by side for each varietal. They were generous with the wine - a free taste of their new sparkling rose and a heavy handed pour of their late harvest reisling. Plus 2 glasses of wine with my tapas lunch. Definitely needed a nap after that outing. My fav there was their Cordillera label, 2007 blend of 50% carmenere, 35% merlot, 15% petit verdot, but at over $50/bottle - not worth it. Would rather have me some Anarchy!
For my palate, all of the wines are very flat on the finish. For the most part, they remind me of table wine and the price is also along those lines, $7 - $12. Hard for me to imagine paying for the high priced wines here.
New pics are on my site - enjoy.
Ciao!
Sunday, February 26, 2012
RAINY DAYS IN PUERTO VARAS, CHILE
OMG, time has flown by. A week ago I was in Puerto Varas, the lake region of Chile. Was there for 5 days and it poured rain the first 2 days - solid downpour...so much that I spent all day in a cafe, then ran next door to eat Cuban food for dinner. Lotsa good microbrews here to help me pass the time.
The main attractions in Puerto Varas are Lago Llanquihue (2nd largest lake in Chile - 330 sq miles) and Volcan Osorno (over 8,700’). Well, lots of rain and cloudy days make for no volcano sightings!
My main entertainment was playing with and feeding the stray black puppy in the park near the waterfront, people watching and wedding crashing. My Friday night was quite lively, as there was a free concert in the main square - have no clue what they were singing, but the crowd seemed to know all the words.
The main attractions in Puerto Varas are Lago Llanquihue (2nd largest lake in Chile - 330 sq miles) and Volcan Osorno (over 8,700’). Well, lots of rain and cloudy days make for no volcano sightings!
My main entertainment was playing with and feeding the stray black puppy in the park near the waterfront, people watching and wedding crashing. My Friday night was quite lively, as there was a free concert in the main square - have no clue what they were singing, but the crowd seemed to know all the words.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
