OMG, time has flown by. A week ago I was in Puerto Varas, the lake region of Chile. Was there for 5 days and it poured rain the first 2 days - solid downpour...so much that I spent all day in a cafe, then ran next door to eat Cuban food for dinner. Lotsa good microbrews here to help me pass the time.
The main attractions in Puerto Varas are Lago Llanquihue (2nd largest lake in Chile - 330 sq miles) and Volcan Osorno (over 8,700’). Well, lots of rain and cloudy days make for no volcano sightings!
My main entertainment was playing with and feeding the stray black puppy in the park near the waterfront, people watching and wedding crashing. My Friday night was quite lively, as there was a free concert in the main square - have no clue what they were singing, but the crowd seemed to know all the words.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Friday, February 17, 2012
TORRES DEL PAINE HIKE
7 hours of fast-paced hiking (at least for my pace), 11.2 miles RT, 2460’ elevation gain. SORE, but the view was worth it.
OMG - the longest I’ve hiked since high school or possibly EVER! Definitely DID NOT prepare for this excursion. But I’m here, so had to go for it. I see people of all ages, well into their 60s, and possibly 70s, so how tough can it be - right? Right......
Our guide, whose legs are 1.5 times as long as mine, and who does this every day takes off on a fast pace from the hotel. I’m barely keeping up on flat land and am hoping he’ll slow down on the climb UP. Up is a constant cardio workout - must do more cardio when I get back home. Thank God for the woman who was older & slower than me. If it weren’t for her, I’d be at the back of the group.
At the half-way point to the top, we stopped 10-15 minutes for a break. Just as I’m starting to get feeling in my calves again, we’re ready to go. Up. Up. Up. And more Up. Did I mention that I don’t do hiking like this at home.
We’re almost to the top and it starts to get very windy. This isn’t your casual wind, this is Patagonia wind - cold, brisk, extremely strong. The last stretch isn’t a trail per se - it’s a series of jagged rocks & boulders that you navigate to the top. The wind is kicking up and I’m thinking it’s going to fling me off the side of the mountain like a gnat and I’ll go tumbling down. I see a woman with a real backpack (not a daypack) - she’s clinging to a rock so the wind doesn’t grab her pack and throw her down the mountain.
HUGE PAYOFF after 4 hours of hiking. The 3 towers come into view on this crisp, clear, sunny day. All of a sudden the pain in my calves goes away. You’d think “Torres del Paine” was all about pain, but “Paine” (pronounced pine-ay with a long a) means blue in the original Indian language.
We stay for 30 minutes to eat our lunch, and we’re definitely ready to go because the wind up there is friggin’ cold and goes straight to your bones. Even though the sun is out, with the wind, the guide says it feels like mid-40 temps. I hiked up most of the way in a short-sleeve wool t-shirt, but now I have all layers on (hat, glove liners & gloves, 2 jackets, 2 shirts).
The way down - just as hard as the way up, but a whole different set of pain. I think I prefer up. Down is extremely hard on the knees and they ache with every single step & movement. It takes 3 hours to get down.
My calves were sore for days - after 5 days, they’re still rock hard & stiff, but I can now get out of a chair & walk without grunting. The tips of some of my toes were sore - so much that it was uncomfortable with the sheet on top of them. Must be how marathon runners feel. I look at the many backpackers and think am I a wimp or what?
Side note - met a 68 year-old woman from London who had a hip replacement 4 years ago. She and her husband did the hike - took them 8.5 hours. I hear that and know I shouldn’t complain one bit.
On to the next adventure.
OMG - the longest I’ve hiked since high school or possibly EVER! Definitely DID NOT prepare for this excursion. But I’m here, so had to go for it. I see people of all ages, well into their 60s, and possibly 70s, so how tough can it be - right? Right......
Our guide, whose legs are 1.5 times as long as mine, and who does this every day takes off on a fast pace from the hotel. I’m barely keeping up on flat land and am hoping he’ll slow down on the climb UP. Up is a constant cardio workout - must do more cardio when I get back home. Thank God for the woman who was older & slower than me. If it weren’t for her, I’d be at the back of the group.
At the half-way point to the top, we stopped 10-15 minutes for a break. Just as I’m starting to get feeling in my calves again, we’re ready to go. Up. Up. Up. And more Up. Did I mention that I don’t do hiking like this at home.
We’re almost to the top and it starts to get very windy. This isn’t your casual wind, this is Patagonia wind - cold, brisk, extremely strong. The last stretch isn’t a trail per se - it’s a series of jagged rocks & boulders that you navigate to the top. The wind is kicking up and I’m thinking it’s going to fling me off the side of the mountain like a gnat and I’ll go tumbling down. I see a woman with a real backpack (not a daypack) - she’s clinging to a rock so the wind doesn’t grab her pack and throw her down the mountain.
HUGE PAYOFF after 4 hours of hiking. The 3 towers come into view on this crisp, clear, sunny day. All of a sudden the pain in my calves goes away. You’d think “Torres del Paine” was all about pain, but “Paine” (pronounced pine-ay with a long a) means blue in the original Indian language.
We stay for 30 minutes to eat our lunch, and we’re definitely ready to go because the wind up there is friggin’ cold and goes straight to your bones. Even though the sun is out, with the wind, the guide says it feels like mid-40 temps. I hiked up most of the way in a short-sleeve wool t-shirt, but now I have all layers on (hat, glove liners & gloves, 2 jackets, 2 shirts).
The way down - just as hard as the way up, but a whole different set of pain. I think I prefer up. Down is extremely hard on the knees and they ache with every single step & movement. It takes 3 hours to get down.
My calves were sore for days - after 5 days, they’re still rock hard & stiff, but I can now get out of a chair & walk without grunting. The tips of some of my toes were sore - so much that it was uncomfortable with the sheet on top of them. Must be how marathon runners feel. I look at the many backpackers and think am I a wimp or what?
Side note - met a 68 year-old woman from London who had a hip replacement 4 years ago. She and her husband did the hike - took them 8.5 hours. I hear that and know I shouldn’t complain one bit.
On to the next adventure.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
SHARING MATE'
On a recent all-day trip from El Calafate to El Chalten, which is where Mt. Fitz Roy is, I had the opportunity to drink mate’. (I don’t know how to make the accent appear over the “e” on the computer.)
Our guide first pulls out a small bottle of Calafate berry liquor and pours all of us shots. Sweet, a little syrupy, but definitely tasty. Would be good in a margarita or a pisco sour. After the shot he starts drinking mate’, so I ask him about it.
They typically drink mate’ after eating, as it’s good for digestion. But, some just seem to drink it all the time, as I see people walking around with thermos’ under their arm. They put the dried/chopped/ground tea leaves in a gourd looking thing, about the size of a coffee cup. The leaves are steeped in hot water and they sip it through a silver straw, which has little holes at the bottom to help strain the tea. They drink a little, then add more water, then drink a little, then add more water, and that can go on for a long time.
Even though you see people with their own mate’ gourd, it can be a social, sharing type of drink. The guide explains to me that in somebody’s house, after dinner, they’ll bring out the mate’ and pass it around. So, we did this on the bus - he’d drink a little, add water, then pass it to the next person. The 2nd person would drink a little, through the same silver straw, give it back to him and he’d add more water. The 3rd person would drink a little, and so on.
So, talk about sharing spit with your friends. I shared spit with about 3 strangers for maybe an hour on the ride back.
Our guide first pulls out a small bottle of Calafate berry liquor and pours all of us shots. Sweet, a little syrupy, but definitely tasty. Would be good in a margarita or a pisco sour. After the shot he starts drinking mate’, so I ask him about it.
They typically drink mate’ after eating, as it’s good for digestion. But, some just seem to drink it all the time, as I see people walking around with thermos’ under their arm. They put the dried/chopped/ground tea leaves in a gourd looking thing, about the size of a coffee cup. The leaves are steeped in hot water and they sip it through a silver straw, which has little holes at the bottom to help strain the tea. They drink a little, then add more water, then drink a little, then add more water, and that can go on for a long time.
Even though you see people with their own mate’ gourd, it can be a social, sharing type of drink. The guide explains to me that in somebody’s house, after dinner, they’ll bring out the mate’ and pass it around. So, we did this on the bus - he’d drink a little, add water, then pass it to the next person. The 2nd person would drink a little, through the same silver straw, give it back to him and he’d add more water. The 3rd person would drink a little, and so on.
So, talk about sharing spit with your friends. I shared spit with about 3 strangers for maybe an hour on the ride back.
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
PERITO MORENO GLACIER & ICE TREKKING
OMG - the largest glacier I have ever seen, and it’s not even the largest in the area of Argentine Patagonia. It’s 97 square miles, 19 miles in length, 3 miles wide, and about 240’ high. There are about 80 glaciers in the area and this is one of 3 that is growing, and the world’s 3rd largest reservoir of fresh water.
BEYOND HUGE...MASSIVE!!! The platforms they have to view the glacier are fantastic - many walkways and benches for viewing and having lunch, but you have to like the wind. Wind is a constant in Patagonia. This by far beat the view of the largest glacier in the area - Viedma
As for the ice trekking - what a workout. Strap on some medieval looking metal spikes to your shoes and start walking....over crevasses, running water, and lots of ice. Walking uphill was nothing compared to downhill. Downhill was walking while squatting (think walking while doing a semi-lunge) and yes it built up my required Quads of Steel.
1.5 hours of trekking was plenty for me - my knees took a beating with the extra weight. The payoff at the end was scotch on the rocks with ice from the glacier. Tasted great and I don’t even like scotch.
More photos & posts to come - been on all-day excursions and connection is very slow.
Ciao!
BEYOND HUGE...MASSIVE!!! The platforms they have to view the glacier are fantastic - many walkways and benches for viewing and having lunch, but you have to like the wind. Wind is a constant in Patagonia. This by far beat the view of the largest glacier in the area - Viedma
As for the ice trekking - what a workout. Strap on some medieval looking metal spikes to your shoes and start walking....over crevasses, running water, and lots of ice. Walking uphill was nothing compared to downhill. Downhill was walking while squatting (think walking while doing a semi-lunge) and yes it built up my required Quads of Steel.
1.5 hours of trekking was plenty for me - my knees took a beating with the extra weight. The payoff at the end was scotch on the rocks with ice from the glacier. Tasted great and I don’t even like scotch.
More photos & posts to come - been on all-day excursions and connection is very slow.
Ciao!
Friday, February 3, 2012
Quads of Steel
Traveling solo isn't bad, but I really miss having a travel buddy when it comes to using a public restroom.
Maybe a little TMI for some of you, but oh well.... My buddy usually watches my daypack and vice versa. When solo, I don't dare leave my bag at the table where I'm dining, so I schlep it to the bathroom. There usually isn't a place to set my pack and I wouldn't think of putting it on the floor, so it stays on my back.
In situations like this, I often wonder...is it worth it to carry my big, heavy camera.
Next time, instead of hiking to prep for a trip, I'll practice squatting over a toilet with 10 pounds on my back. Note to self - build the quads of steel before the trip!!!
Maybe a little TMI for some of you, but oh well.... My buddy usually watches my daypack and vice versa. When solo, I don't dare leave my bag at the table where I'm dining, so I schlep it to the bathroom. There usually isn't a place to set my pack and I wouldn't think of putting it on the floor, so it stays on my back.
In situations like this, I often wonder...is it worth it to carry my big, heavy camera.
Next time, instead of hiking to prep for a trip, I'll practice squatting over a toilet with 10 pounds on my back. Note to self - build the quads of steel before the trip!!!
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