I’m definitely not a disciplined blogger. It’s June 2nd and the last time I posted a story was in late April and it was about an event that took place in February....oops.
To catch up - I left the wonderful friends I made at Vines of Mendoza in Vista Flores, Argentina in early May, and have since been to Easter Island, La Serena, Elqui Valley, and Santiago - all in Chile.
Fast forward to May 20th, where I receive an extremely hot & humid welcome to Cartagena, Colombia. Every day is the same - 90 degrees/90% humidity...the sun is blazing hot and the humidity sucks the energy right out of me.
The old walled city of Cartagena is a sight to see. It’s surrounded by an extremely thick wall with canons on top and inside the city are brightly colored Spanish Colonial buildings - blue, green, yellow, purple; some a little more subdued with ochre, amber, rose. All in various stages of being - newly remodeled to what could easily be condemned, right next door to each other. Full bloom bougainvilleas hang from balconies or intertwine in the narrow wooden lathed columns that provide security on the exterior of the windows.
The sounds of the city are non-stop...taxis honk to get your attention, street cart vendors shout out what they have for sale (mangos, avocados, ice cream, water, cigarettes, etc.), music is everywhere and at all hours..every. day. of. the. week.
Some vendors push their carts throughout the streets, so when you hear them hollering “mango”, you simply go outside and buy what you want. And you have to be careful to not hit your head when you go outside. Most houses have a door, then a smaller door inset into the larger door. You use the smaller door to enter/exit the house and if you’re any taller than me, you’ll probably hit your head if you don’t duck. It’s for privacy, but it doesn’t make sense to me because most people leave their windows wide open and you can see everything in their house. Why wide open? NO AC. If you have AC, it’s usually a unit in a BR. The house I’m in doesn’t have a 4th wall, so the kitchen & LR are completely exposed to the heat...there’s a roof, but no exterior wall, so no use having an AC unit in that area.
Kids are always playing soccer - many of them hang out in the various plazas. They have small, casual pickup games and they play bare-footed or in flip-flops. It’s amazing to see their footwork and skills, especially in flip flops - their feet move so fast!
If a car pulls over to let a passenger out and it blocks traffic, even for a few seconds, the other drivers are on their horns immediately. The police station across the street from me is almost within touching distance - that’s how narrow this street is. The smallest car you can think of would block traffic on this street. Well, the cops were loading a truck with gear, which blocked the street for about 10 minutes - almost every driver was on their horn....full on honking at the cops!!! It’s quite hilarious. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen people honk at the cops in the states.
I’m in a small B&B - the owner lives here and rents out 2 rooms. I’m pretty much a slug and don’t do anything other than go to Spanish class in the afternoon. It’s like living with somebody’s aunt and her housekeeper/cook...and the housekeeper’s brother, who does odd jobs around the house, provides security, and escorts the guests at night, if they want, to a restaurant or the club down the street. There was a huge fiesta in the main plaza one night and since I’m solo, he went with me and we hung out together.
Most days I also eat lunch with them - they’re teaching me to make some Colombian dishes and I’ve made Chinese and Italian food for them. Did I mention it’s blazing hot here - well, almost every day they eat some type of soup for lunch. I’d love a cold salad or sandwich, but no - soup...HOT SOUP! Or something fried - my face is breaking out like a teenager.
The more I travel, the smaller the world gets. While walking in the old city, I ran into two guys from Louisiana, who were also working at the winery in Argentina. Had no clue they’d be here and I haven’t seen or communicated with them since late March. Then I ran into them again at a fiesta, where there were ALOT of people. What are the odds?
Ahhhh, that’s life in Cartagena.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
Sunday, April 22, 2012
OH...to be 21 Again
Remember when you could work all day, go out all night and not get home until the sun was coming up....yup, it’s common here.
Woke up at 7am for work at the winery and had a great day....especially since it included an asado (BBQ) for some clients/prospects for lunch. Sparkling wine, grilled pork, Torrontes wine, steak, Malbec wine, chicken, veggies, guacamole, wine, dessert, more wine and more wine. Then a short horseback ride among the vineyards. Yes, I was ready for a nap.
A little bit more work, then back to the Posada del Jamon for a quick rest before going to an asado fiesta for 2 guys from Louisiana. They picked me and one other gal up around 9pm, then we went into the little town of Vista Flores to buy massive amounts of meat and other stuff for the asado...then we drove about 15-20 minutes to La Consulta, a slightly larger town. There we pick up another person (5 of us in a compact car) and drive to the asado, where there will be about 15 of us.
We’re in a park-ish setting and we gather in an area that has a cement floor with a thached bamboo roof and some picnic tables, and a place for a BBQ nearby. No gas BBQs here - wood or charcoal. Did anybody bring paper to help start the fire - NO. We ask a group of guys nearby for paper (YES, they have extra), but they see us struggling, so they bring hot coals over for us (YAY - that saved us about an hour). Finally, our fire gets roaring, it turns into embers, and we put the meat on the BBQ. It’s about 11pm.
What about cups - OOPS, nobody thought about that. What size are the beer bottles here - one litre. Yes, we “pass the bottle” of 1 litre beer or 1 gallon jugs of wine around and each take turns with a sip or two, while we watch the meat cook.
Plates...oops, only brought a half dozen of those, along with forks & knives. Doesn’t matter - they slice the meat as it comes off the BBQ and you eat it as it’s sliced. If you have a fork, great...if not, use your fingers to get a piece. Salad is tossed in a huge Rubbermaid bin - I’ve yet to see dressing in the store - only oil & vinegar. Bread is on the table....more meat comes off the BBQ...eventually a whole grilled chicken, and of course more beer & wine are passed. Did I mention that we started eating just after midnight???
I think we finally finished eating around 1:30 or 2am...then the impromptu dancing starts and it’s a blast. I don’t know what style they’re dancing, but they’re good...not salsa, not tango, but something that looks way better than what I can do. No matter the style, we all have fun.
But wait, the dancing isn’t over....it’s about 3am, if not later and some of us head to the local nightclub. Yes, the beers here are also 1 litre, so we continue to pass a large bottle around to each other. Dancing, more beers, dancing, more beers. The crowd slowly thins and we leave some time after 6am....get home just as the sun is coming up, and crawl into bed.
I definitely remember the days in college where staying up this late was a common activity during the week and on the weekend....it’s so much tougher on the body now....Oh to be 21 again.
Woke up at 7am for work at the winery and had a great day....especially since it included an asado (BBQ) for some clients/prospects for lunch. Sparkling wine, grilled pork, Torrontes wine, steak, Malbec wine, chicken, veggies, guacamole, wine, dessert, more wine and more wine. Then a short horseback ride among the vineyards. Yes, I was ready for a nap.
A little bit more work, then back to the Posada del Jamon for a quick rest before going to an asado fiesta for 2 guys from Louisiana. They picked me and one other gal up around 9pm, then we went into the little town of Vista Flores to buy massive amounts of meat and other stuff for the asado...then we drove about 15-20 minutes to La Consulta, a slightly larger town. There we pick up another person (5 of us in a compact car) and drive to the asado, where there will be about 15 of us.
We’re in a park-ish setting and we gather in an area that has a cement floor with a thached bamboo roof and some picnic tables, and a place for a BBQ nearby. No gas BBQs here - wood or charcoal. Did anybody bring paper to help start the fire - NO. We ask a group of guys nearby for paper (YES, they have extra), but they see us struggling, so they bring hot coals over for us (YAY - that saved us about an hour). Finally, our fire gets roaring, it turns into embers, and we put the meat on the BBQ. It’s about 11pm.
What about cups - OOPS, nobody thought about that. What size are the beer bottles here - one litre. Yes, we “pass the bottle” of 1 litre beer or 1 gallon jugs of wine around and each take turns with a sip or two, while we watch the meat cook.
Plates...oops, only brought a half dozen of those, along with forks & knives. Doesn’t matter - they slice the meat as it comes off the BBQ and you eat it as it’s sliced. If you have a fork, great...if not, use your fingers to get a piece. Salad is tossed in a huge Rubbermaid bin - I’ve yet to see dressing in the store - only oil & vinegar. Bread is on the table....more meat comes off the BBQ...eventually a whole grilled chicken, and of course more beer & wine are passed. Did I mention that we started eating just after midnight???
I think we finally finished eating around 1:30 or 2am...then the impromptu dancing starts and it’s a blast. I don’t know what style they’re dancing, but they’re good...not salsa, not tango, but something that looks way better than what I can do. No matter the style, we all have fun.
But wait, the dancing isn’t over....it’s about 3am, if not later and some of us head to the local nightclub. Yes, the beers here are also 1 litre, so we continue to pass a large bottle around to each other. Dancing, more beers, dancing, more beers. The crowd slowly thins and we leave some time after 6am....get home just as the sun is coming up, and crawl into bed.
I definitely remember the days in college where staying up this late was a common activity during the week and on the weekend....it’s so much tougher on the body now....Oh to be 21 again.
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
PLANES, TRAINS, AND AUTOMOBILES
Yes, they have them in Argentina. Do they work....well, not always. So far on this trip:
1. A PLANE delay, but the good news is they gave me a free lunch and a credit to my credit card. The lunch was a very dried out beef milenesa. Even with a real metal fork & knife (in the airport), I couldn’t cut through the dried out meat without shaking the beer out of my glass. And the credit...well, still waiting for it to appear on my credit card.
2. A TRAIN that caught on fire. On the way home from a day trip to Tigre’, 30km N of Buenos Aires, the train caught on fire. I kept wondering what that burning rubber smell was.
3. A BUS that never arrived. No wonder some people are out so late in the evening...the bus never comes, at least not the one you want. Ok, ok, so I didn’t leave the bar until 1:30 or 2am, which is really early for Buenos Aires, but after 30 minutes of waiting the bus never came...and the metro stopped at 10:30pm. I think I finally got home around 3am....again, still early for here!
4. A TAXI that ran out of gas. Decided to catch a taxi after the bus never came, and half-way to my B&B the driver said “finito”. I’m thinking, no, we’re not there yet. He puts the car in neutral and coasts to the curb. Oh, I get it...no mas petrol. So, that night, in order to get home, I took a bus that never came and a taxi with no gas. Better to rely on my feet than on their transport system.
BTW, pics of Puerto Iguazu (waterfalls) have been added to my photo site.
Ciao!
1. A PLANE delay, but the good news is they gave me a free lunch and a credit to my credit card. The lunch was a very dried out beef milenesa. Even with a real metal fork & knife (in the airport), I couldn’t cut through the dried out meat without shaking the beer out of my glass. And the credit...well, still waiting for it to appear on my credit card.
2. A TRAIN that caught on fire. On the way home from a day trip to Tigre’, 30km N of Buenos Aires, the train caught on fire. I kept wondering what that burning rubber smell was.
3. A BUS that never arrived. No wonder some people are out so late in the evening...the bus never comes, at least not the one you want. Ok, ok, so I didn’t leave the bar until 1:30 or 2am, which is really early for Buenos Aires, but after 30 minutes of waiting the bus never came...and the metro stopped at 10:30pm. I think I finally got home around 3am....again, still early for here!
4. A TAXI that ran out of gas. Decided to catch a taxi after the bus never came, and half-way to my B&B the driver said “finito”. I’m thinking, no, we’re not there yet. He puts the car in neutral and coasts to the curb. Oh, I get it...no mas petrol. So, that night, in order to get home, I took a bus that never came and a taxi with no gas. Better to rely on my feet than on their transport system.
BTW, pics of Puerto Iguazu (waterfalls) have been added to my photo site.
Ciao!
Monday, March 12, 2012
WHEN IN ROME.....
My most authentic experience so far was a day trip from Buenos Aires to Tigre’ (30km N of Buenos Aires). It’s along the Parana Delta and the locals flock there during the summer for vacation, a weekend getaway, or even a day trip.
I went with Kelly from Vancouver, who I met at my B&B in Santiago. We met up again in Buenos Aires and hung together for a few days.
Although not far away, it took 3 modes of transportation to finally get to a little island (there are many in Tigre). Metro to train station, then train to Tigre (50 minute ride), then wait for a ferry to go to one of the many islands in Tigre. Doesn’t sound like a long trip, but from the time we got on the metro to the time we stepped foot on an island, a bit over 3 hours had passed. WHEW.
We randomly picked Tres Bocas, an island that has restaurants. There’s one path around the island, so when you land, you can either go right or left. There’s a canal-ish, brown body of water that we’re walking along (actually the whole delta is brownish). It’s very tropical - ginger plants, palms, insects, but also things I haven’t seen in a tropical environment - pine trees and hydrangeas.
It’s after 1pm, it’s hot, it’s humid, I’m sweating like a pig, and I’m thirsty. After walking 10-15 minutes, there’s a sign for canoe rentals at what looks like somebody’s house. There’s a dog on the dock, which I stop to pet, and a woman appears from the front yard. I say hola and look towards the house...wondering if they sell any drinks. I ask if they have beer and she says yes...don’t need to twist my arm - we’re stopping here.
Well.....4 hours later, we’re still there. Turns out they (Ines and Julian) built a summer house and also have 2 small cabanas for rent or you can pitch a tent in the yard. And they rent canoes. Ines invites us in, gives us a tour of her house and studio (she paints) and makes us feel very welcome.
We drink a huge beer (1 liter), then another, then she invites us to stay for an asado. There’s a HUGE pile of meat ready to be put on the grill. We meet others who are staying there; have stopped by for the day; or are friends of theirs.
A couple hours later and more huge beers, then one of the guests carves one of the massive pieces of meat and is placing a piece on everybody’s plate. As soon as we finish that piece, he moves onto cutting the next piece and serves us more, and this keeps going until all of the meat is gone. There’s ONE bell pepper (they don’t eat many veggies here) and some potatoes. A basic salad, some bread, cheese...and more beer.
It was a day of hanging out with the locals. It was like hanging out with friends at the river. Ines in her black bikini and Julian in his swim trunks all day - you can see them in my Tigre’ pics.
The journey home wasn’t as pleasant. The train was packed and the number of people waiting for the next train was massive, so we decided to wait for a few more trains to pass. Ok, another beer and papas fritas.
Finally got on a train around 9:30pm and if it weren’t for the family with strollers in front of us, I’m pretty sure my face would be smashed into somebody’s armpit...or pretty close to it. So yes, standing the whole way back. More than half way home and we smell burning rubber....and smell it, and smell it. We’re saying that it would be horrible to live in whatever city we were in and that smell couldn’t be good for the people.
We’re approaching a train station, the doors open and EVERYBODY EXITS THE TRAIN. Not in a casual way either - like a mass exodus. THE TRAIN IS ON FIRE. No wonder it smelled! So, more waiting for another train.
By the time we get to Buenos Aires, it’s 10:31...how do I know that - because the subway stops running at 10:30pm. Really, in a city that doesn’t start eating dinner until 10 or 11, the subway stops at 10:30. Geez. Ok, gotta figure out which bus will get us close to home. Finally got to my B&B at 11pm.
CRAZY ending to a really FUN day.
I went with Kelly from Vancouver, who I met at my B&B in Santiago. We met up again in Buenos Aires and hung together for a few days.
Although not far away, it took 3 modes of transportation to finally get to a little island (there are many in Tigre). Metro to train station, then train to Tigre (50 minute ride), then wait for a ferry to go to one of the many islands in Tigre. Doesn’t sound like a long trip, but from the time we got on the metro to the time we stepped foot on an island, a bit over 3 hours had passed. WHEW.
We randomly picked Tres Bocas, an island that has restaurants. There’s one path around the island, so when you land, you can either go right or left. There’s a canal-ish, brown body of water that we’re walking along (actually the whole delta is brownish). It’s very tropical - ginger plants, palms, insects, but also things I haven’t seen in a tropical environment - pine trees and hydrangeas.
It’s after 1pm, it’s hot, it’s humid, I’m sweating like a pig, and I’m thirsty. After walking 10-15 minutes, there’s a sign for canoe rentals at what looks like somebody’s house. There’s a dog on the dock, which I stop to pet, and a woman appears from the front yard. I say hola and look towards the house...wondering if they sell any drinks. I ask if they have beer and she says yes...don’t need to twist my arm - we’re stopping here.
Well.....4 hours later, we’re still there. Turns out they (Ines and Julian) built a summer house and also have 2 small cabanas for rent or you can pitch a tent in the yard. And they rent canoes. Ines invites us in, gives us a tour of her house and studio (she paints) and makes us feel very welcome.
We drink a huge beer (1 liter), then another, then she invites us to stay for an asado. There’s a HUGE pile of meat ready to be put on the grill. We meet others who are staying there; have stopped by for the day; or are friends of theirs.
A couple hours later and more huge beers, then one of the guests carves one of the massive pieces of meat and is placing a piece on everybody’s plate. As soon as we finish that piece, he moves onto cutting the next piece and serves us more, and this keeps going until all of the meat is gone. There’s ONE bell pepper (they don’t eat many veggies here) and some potatoes. A basic salad, some bread, cheese...and more beer.
It was a day of hanging out with the locals. It was like hanging out with friends at the river. Ines in her black bikini and Julian in his swim trunks all day - you can see them in my Tigre’ pics.
The journey home wasn’t as pleasant. The train was packed and the number of people waiting for the next train was massive, so we decided to wait for a few more trains to pass. Ok, another beer and papas fritas.
Finally got on a train around 9:30pm and if it weren’t for the family with strollers in front of us, I’m pretty sure my face would be smashed into somebody’s armpit...or pretty close to it. So yes, standing the whole way back. More than half way home and we smell burning rubber....and smell it, and smell it. We’re saying that it would be horrible to live in whatever city we were in and that smell couldn’t be good for the people.
We’re approaching a train station, the doors open and EVERYBODY EXITS THE TRAIN. Not in a casual way either - like a mass exodus. THE TRAIN IS ON FIRE. No wonder it smelled! So, more waiting for another train.
By the time we get to Buenos Aires, it’s 10:31...how do I know that - because the subway stops running at 10:30pm. Really, in a city that doesn’t start eating dinner until 10 or 11, the subway stops at 10:30. Geez. Ok, gotta figure out which bus will get us close to home. Finally got to my B&B at 11pm.
CRAZY ending to a really FUN day.
Thursday, March 1, 2012
WHERE'S THE WINE???
Not so easy to find wine tasting in Santiago. Wineries yes, tasting rooms no. You need a reservation for most of them and a car to get there.
Four days of tasting, 3 different ways - (1) bike & wine tour to 3 wineries, (2) metro & taxi to 2 wineries, and (3) winery restaurant. Many of the wineries opened in the 1990’s, so they’re still fairly new.
Bike & wine....for some reason I only ride a bike when in a foreign country. We rode on hardpack rock/dirt roads (DUSTY) and visited 3 wineries in the Maipo Valley. At Huelquen, we met the owner/winemaker and he poured a 2003 cabernet sauvignon, which is old considering most of the restaurants are serving 2010 and 2011 wines. That 2003 runs $36, which seemed pricey for the quality.
Day 2 - Hopped on the metro for about an hour or so, then taxi to Concha y Toro, which is the 2nd largest winery in the world. Their top label is Don Melchor and a 2008 cab runs about $114. I had a glass with lunch - definitely not worth that money. They have the tasting room thing down - $16 for a tour and 2 skimpy tastes....hordes of people go through there.
Day 3 - again via metro to Cousino Macul a medium size winery (per their description) which produces 5 million bottles annually and exports 65% of their production. Their top end label Lota is $120 which has been produced since 2004, and they only make 9,000 bottles/year. Of that, only 140 get exported to the US. I doubt it’s worth it.
Lastly, happened up a restaurant owned or run by Miguel Torres winery. I talked them into letting me do a flight of 3 cabs and 3 carmenere’s. Although much more expensive than the wine tours, much more enjoyable - tasting 3 of their labels side by side for each varietal. They were generous with the wine - a free taste of their new sparkling rose and a heavy handed pour of their late harvest reisling. Plus 2 glasses of wine with my tapas lunch. Definitely needed a nap after that outing. My fav there was their Cordillera label, 2007 blend of 50% carmenere, 35% merlot, 15% petit verdot, but at over $50/bottle - not worth it. Would rather have me some Anarchy!
For my palate, all of the wines are very flat on the finish. For the most part, they remind me of table wine and the price is also along those lines, $7 - $12. Hard for me to imagine paying for the high priced wines here.
New pics are on my site - enjoy.
Ciao!
Four days of tasting, 3 different ways - (1) bike & wine tour to 3 wineries, (2) metro & taxi to 2 wineries, and (3) winery restaurant. Many of the wineries opened in the 1990’s, so they’re still fairly new.
Bike & wine....for some reason I only ride a bike when in a foreign country. We rode on hardpack rock/dirt roads (DUSTY) and visited 3 wineries in the Maipo Valley. At Huelquen, we met the owner/winemaker and he poured a 2003 cabernet sauvignon, which is old considering most of the restaurants are serving 2010 and 2011 wines. That 2003 runs $36, which seemed pricey for the quality.
Day 2 - Hopped on the metro for about an hour or so, then taxi to Concha y Toro, which is the 2nd largest winery in the world. Their top label is Don Melchor and a 2008 cab runs about $114. I had a glass with lunch - definitely not worth that money. They have the tasting room thing down - $16 for a tour and 2 skimpy tastes....hordes of people go through there.
Day 3 - again via metro to Cousino Macul a medium size winery (per their description) which produces 5 million bottles annually and exports 65% of their production. Their top end label Lota is $120 which has been produced since 2004, and they only make 9,000 bottles/year. Of that, only 140 get exported to the US. I doubt it’s worth it.
Lastly, happened up a restaurant owned or run by Miguel Torres winery. I talked them into letting me do a flight of 3 cabs and 3 carmenere’s. Although much more expensive than the wine tours, much more enjoyable - tasting 3 of their labels side by side for each varietal. They were generous with the wine - a free taste of their new sparkling rose and a heavy handed pour of their late harvest reisling. Plus 2 glasses of wine with my tapas lunch. Definitely needed a nap after that outing. My fav there was their Cordillera label, 2007 blend of 50% carmenere, 35% merlot, 15% petit verdot, but at over $50/bottle - not worth it. Would rather have me some Anarchy!
For my palate, all of the wines are very flat on the finish. For the most part, they remind me of table wine and the price is also along those lines, $7 - $12. Hard for me to imagine paying for the high priced wines here.
New pics are on my site - enjoy.
Ciao!
Sunday, February 26, 2012
RAINY DAYS IN PUERTO VARAS, CHILE
OMG, time has flown by. A week ago I was in Puerto Varas, the lake region of Chile. Was there for 5 days and it poured rain the first 2 days - solid downpour...so much that I spent all day in a cafe, then ran next door to eat Cuban food for dinner. Lotsa good microbrews here to help me pass the time.
The main attractions in Puerto Varas are Lago Llanquihue (2nd largest lake in Chile - 330 sq miles) and Volcan Osorno (over 8,700’). Well, lots of rain and cloudy days make for no volcano sightings!
My main entertainment was playing with and feeding the stray black puppy in the park near the waterfront, people watching and wedding crashing. My Friday night was quite lively, as there was a free concert in the main square - have no clue what they were singing, but the crowd seemed to know all the words.
The main attractions in Puerto Varas are Lago Llanquihue (2nd largest lake in Chile - 330 sq miles) and Volcan Osorno (over 8,700’). Well, lots of rain and cloudy days make for no volcano sightings!
My main entertainment was playing with and feeding the stray black puppy in the park near the waterfront, people watching and wedding crashing. My Friday night was quite lively, as there was a free concert in the main square - have no clue what they were singing, but the crowd seemed to know all the words.
Friday, February 17, 2012
TORRES DEL PAINE HIKE
7 hours of fast-paced hiking (at least for my pace), 11.2 miles RT, 2460’ elevation gain. SORE, but the view was worth it.
OMG - the longest I’ve hiked since high school or possibly EVER! Definitely DID NOT prepare for this excursion. But I’m here, so had to go for it. I see people of all ages, well into their 60s, and possibly 70s, so how tough can it be - right? Right......
Our guide, whose legs are 1.5 times as long as mine, and who does this every day takes off on a fast pace from the hotel. I’m barely keeping up on flat land and am hoping he’ll slow down on the climb UP. Up is a constant cardio workout - must do more cardio when I get back home. Thank God for the woman who was older & slower than me. If it weren’t for her, I’d be at the back of the group.
At the half-way point to the top, we stopped 10-15 minutes for a break. Just as I’m starting to get feeling in my calves again, we’re ready to go. Up. Up. Up. And more Up. Did I mention that I don’t do hiking like this at home.
We’re almost to the top and it starts to get very windy. This isn’t your casual wind, this is Patagonia wind - cold, brisk, extremely strong. The last stretch isn’t a trail per se - it’s a series of jagged rocks & boulders that you navigate to the top. The wind is kicking up and I’m thinking it’s going to fling me off the side of the mountain like a gnat and I’ll go tumbling down. I see a woman with a real backpack (not a daypack) - she’s clinging to a rock so the wind doesn’t grab her pack and throw her down the mountain.
HUGE PAYOFF after 4 hours of hiking. The 3 towers come into view on this crisp, clear, sunny day. All of a sudden the pain in my calves goes away. You’d think “Torres del Paine” was all about pain, but “Paine” (pronounced pine-ay with a long a) means blue in the original Indian language.
We stay for 30 minutes to eat our lunch, and we’re definitely ready to go because the wind up there is friggin’ cold and goes straight to your bones. Even though the sun is out, with the wind, the guide says it feels like mid-40 temps. I hiked up most of the way in a short-sleeve wool t-shirt, but now I have all layers on (hat, glove liners & gloves, 2 jackets, 2 shirts).
The way down - just as hard as the way up, but a whole different set of pain. I think I prefer up. Down is extremely hard on the knees and they ache with every single step & movement. It takes 3 hours to get down.
My calves were sore for days - after 5 days, they’re still rock hard & stiff, but I can now get out of a chair & walk without grunting. The tips of some of my toes were sore - so much that it was uncomfortable with the sheet on top of them. Must be how marathon runners feel. I look at the many backpackers and think am I a wimp or what?
Side note - met a 68 year-old woman from London who had a hip replacement 4 years ago. She and her husband did the hike - took them 8.5 hours. I hear that and know I shouldn’t complain one bit.
On to the next adventure.
OMG - the longest I’ve hiked since high school or possibly EVER! Definitely DID NOT prepare for this excursion. But I’m here, so had to go for it. I see people of all ages, well into their 60s, and possibly 70s, so how tough can it be - right? Right......
Our guide, whose legs are 1.5 times as long as mine, and who does this every day takes off on a fast pace from the hotel. I’m barely keeping up on flat land and am hoping he’ll slow down on the climb UP. Up is a constant cardio workout - must do more cardio when I get back home. Thank God for the woman who was older & slower than me. If it weren’t for her, I’d be at the back of the group.
At the half-way point to the top, we stopped 10-15 minutes for a break. Just as I’m starting to get feeling in my calves again, we’re ready to go. Up. Up. Up. And more Up. Did I mention that I don’t do hiking like this at home.
We’re almost to the top and it starts to get very windy. This isn’t your casual wind, this is Patagonia wind - cold, brisk, extremely strong. The last stretch isn’t a trail per se - it’s a series of jagged rocks & boulders that you navigate to the top. The wind is kicking up and I’m thinking it’s going to fling me off the side of the mountain like a gnat and I’ll go tumbling down. I see a woman with a real backpack (not a daypack) - she’s clinging to a rock so the wind doesn’t grab her pack and throw her down the mountain.
HUGE PAYOFF after 4 hours of hiking. The 3 towers come into view on this crisp, clear, sunny day. All of a sudden the pain in my calves goes away. You’d think “Torres del Paine” was all about pain, but “Paine” (pronounced pine-ay with a long a) means blue in the original Indian language.
We stay for 30 minutes to eat our lunch, and we’re definitely ready to go because the wind up there is friggin’ cold and goes straight to your bones. Even though the sun is out, with the wind, the guide says it feels like mid-40 temps. I hiked up most of the way in a short-sleeve wool t-shirt, but now I have all layers on (hat, glove liners & gloves, 2 jackets, 2 shirts).
The way down - just as hard as the way up, but a whole different set of pain. I think I prefer up. Down is extremely hard on the knees and they ache with every single step & movement. It takes 3 hours to get down.
My calves were sore for days - after 5 days, they’re still rock hard & stiff, but I can now get out of a chair & walk without grunting. The tips of some of my toes were sore - so much that it was uncomfortable with the sheet on top of them. Must be how marathon runners feel. I look at the many backpackers and think am I a wimp or what?
Side note - met a 68 year-old woman from London who had a hip replacement 4 years ago. She and her husband did the hike - took them 8.5 hours. I hear that and know I shouldn’t complain one bit.
On to the next adventure.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
SHARING MATE'
On a recent all-day trip from El Calafate to El Chalten, which is where Mt. Fitz Roy is, I had the opportunity to drink mate’. (I don’t know how to make the accent appear over the “e” on the computer.)
Our guide first pulls out a small bottle of Calafate berry liquor and pours all of us shots. Sweet, a little syrupy, but definitely tasty. Would be good in a margarita or a pisco sour. After the shot he starts drinking mate’, so I ask him about it.
They typically drink mate’ after eating, as it’s good for digestion. But, some just seem to drink it all the time, as I see people walking around with thermos’ under their arm. They put the dried/chopped/ground tea leaves in a gourd looking thing, about the size of a coffee cup. The leaves are steeped in hot water and they sip it through a silver straw, which has little holes at the bottom to help strain the tea. They drink a little, then add more water, then drink a little, then add more water, and that can go on for a long time.
Even though you see people with their own mate’ gourd, it can be a social, sharing type of drink. The guide explains to me that in somebody’s house, after dinner, they’ll bring out the mate’ and pass it around. So, we did this on the bus - he’d drink a little, add water, then pass it to the next person. The 2nd person would drink a little, through the same silver straw, give it back to him and he’d add more water. The 3rd person would drink a little, and so on.
So, talk about sharing spit with your friends. I shared spit with about 3 strangers for maybe an hour on the ride back.
Our guide first pulls out a small bottle of Calafate berry liquor and pours all of us shots. Sweet, a little syrupy, but definitely tasty. Would be good in a margarita or a pisco sour. After the shot he starts drinking mate’, so I ask him about it.
They typically drink mate’ after eating, as it’s good for digestion. But, some just seem to drink it all the time, as I see people walking around with thermos’ under their arm. They put the dried/chopped/ground tea leaves in a gourd looking thing, about the size of a coffee cup. The leaves are steeped in hot water and they sip it through a silver straw, which has little holes at the bottom to help strain the tea. They drink a little, then add more water, then drink a little, then add more water, and that can go on for a long time.
Even though you see people with their own mate’ gourd, it can be a social, sharing type of drink. The guide explains to me that in somebody’s house, after dinner, they’ll bring out the mate’ and pass it around. So, we did this on the bus - he’d drink a little, add water, then pass it to the next person. The 2nd person would drink a little, through the same silver straw, give it back to him and he’d add more water. The 3rd person would drink a little, and so on.
So, talk about sharing spit with your friends. I shared spit with about 3 strangers for maybe an hour on the ride back.
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
PERITO MORENO GLACIER & ICE TREKKING
OMG - the largest glacier I have ever seen, and it’s not even the largest in the area of Argentine Patagonia. It’s 97 square miles, 19 miles in length, 3 miles wide, and about 240’ high. There are about 80 glaciers in the area and this is one of 3 that is growing, and the world’s 3rd largest reservoir of fresh water.
BEYOND HUGE...MASSIVE!!! The platforms they have to view the glacier are fantastic - many walkways and benches for viewing and having lunch, but you have to like the wind. Wind is a constant in Patagonia. This by far beat the view of the largest glacier in the area - Viedma
As for the ice trekking - what a workout. Strap on some medieval looking metal spikes to your shoes and start walking....over crevasses, running water, and lots of ice. Walking uphill was nothing compared to downhill. Downhill was walking while squatting (think walking while doing a semi-lunge) and yes it built up my required Quads of Steel.
1.5 hours of trekking was plenty for me - my knees took a beating with the extra weight. The payoff at the end was scotch on the rocks with ice from the glacier. Tasted great and I don’t even like scotch.
More photos & posts to come - been on all-day excursions and connection is very slow.
Ciao!
BEYOND HUGE...MASSIVE!!! The platforms they have to view the glacier are fantastic - many walkways and benches for viewing and having lunch, but you have to like the wind. Wind is a constant in Patagonia. This by far beat the view of the largest glacier in the area - Viedma
As for the ice trekking - what a workout. Strap on some medieval looking metal spikes to your shoes and start walking....over crevasses, running water, and lots of ice. Walking uphill was nothing compared to downhill. Downhill was walking while squatting (think walking while doing a semi-lunge) and yes it built up my required Quads of Steel.
1.5 hours of trekking was plenty for me - my knees took a beating with the extra weight. The payoff at the end was scotch on the rocks with ice from the glacier. Tasted great and I don’t even like scotch.
More photos & posts to come - been on all-day excursions and connection is very slow.
Ciao!
Friday, February 3, 2012
Quads of Steel
Traveling solo isn't bad, but I really miss having a travel buddy when it comes to using a public restroom.
Maybe a little TMI for some of you, but oh well.... My buddy usually watches my daypack and vice versa. When solo, I don't dare leave my bag at the table where I'm dining, so I schlep it to the bathroom. There usually isn't a place to set my pack and I wouldn't think of putting it on the floor, so it stays on my back.
In situations like this, I often wonder...is it worth it to carry my big, heavy camera.
Next time, instead of hiking to prep for a trip, I'll practice squatting over a toilet with 10 pounds on my back. Note to self - build the quads of steel before the trip!!!
Maybe a little TMI for some of you, but oh well.... My buddy usually watches my daypack and vice versa. When solo, I don't dare leave my bag at the table where I'm dining, so I schlep it to the bathroom. There usually isn't a place to set my pack and I wouldn't think of putting it on the floor, so it stays on my back.
In situations like this, I often wonder...is it worth it to carry my big, heavy camera.
Next time, instead of hiking to prep for a trip, I'll practice squatting over a toilet with 10 pounds on my back. Note to self - build the quads of steel before the trip!!!
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
VAMOS A CHILE Y ARGENTINA!
Soon to be on the road again!
I haven't blogged about my lengthy trips before....guess I figured those trips were too fast-paced. This time I'll be gone for a few months, mas or menos. Alright, let's just call it like it is - I don't know when I'll be back.
Month 1 - CHILE
All the way south to Punta Arenas. Where? The Strait of Magellan my friends. Named after good 'ole Portuguese adventurer Ferdinand Magellan; he used this passageway from the Atlantic to Pacific ocean back in 1520. Saved him from going around Cape Horn (Drake Passage) in open waters. Punta Arenas is the capital city of Chile's southernmost region and is part of the Chilean Patagonia.
I'll slowly work my way up to Santiago by the end of Feb. Take a look at the map link to see some of the stops I have planned.
More posts to come....adios amigos!
BTW, I have no clue why a gymnastics video occasionally shows up in my video section.
I haven't blogged about my lengthy trips before....guess I figured those trips were too fast-paced. This time I'll be gone for a few months, mas or menos. Alright, let's just call it like it is - I don't know when I'll be back.
Month 1 - CHILE
All the way south to Punta Arenas. Where? The Strait of Magellan my friends. Named after good 'ole Portuguese adventurer Ferdinand Magellan; he used this passageway from the Atlantic to Pacific ocean back in 1520. Saved him from going around Cape Horn (Drake Passage) in open waters. Punta Arenas is the capital city of Chile's southernmost region and is part of the Chilean Patagonia.
I'll slowly work my way up to Santiago by the end of Feb. Take a look at the map link to see some of the stops I have planned.
More posts to come....adios amigos!
BTW, I have no clue why a gymnastics video occasionally shows up in my video section.
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