WHEN IN ROME.....

My most authentic experience so far was a day trip from Buenos Aires to Tigre’ (30km N of Buenos Aires).  It’s along the Parana Delta and the locals flock there during the summer for vacation, a weekend getaway, or even a day trip. 

I went with Kelly from Vancouver, who I met at my B&B in Santiago.  We met up again in Buenos Aires and hung together for a few days.

Although not far away, it took 3 modes of transportation to finally get to a little island (there are many in Tigre).  Metro to train station, then train to Tigre (50 minute ride), then wait for a ferry to go to one of the many islands in Tigre.  Doesn’t sound like a long trip, but from the time we got on the metro to the time we stepped foot on an island, a bit over 3 hours had passed.  WHEW.

We randomly picked Tres Bocas, an island that has restaurants.  There’s one path around the island, so when you land, you can either go right or left.  There’s a canal-ish, brown body of water that we’re walking along (actually the whole delta is brownish).  It’s very tropical - ginger plants, palms, insects, but also things I haven’t seen in a tropical environment - pine trees and hydrangeas.

It’s after 1pm, it’s hot, it’s humid, I’m sweating like a pig, and I’m thirsty.  After walking 10-15 minutes, there’s a sign for canoe rentals at what looks like somebody’s house.   There’s a dog on the dock, which I stop to pet, and a woman appears from the front yard.  I say hola and look towards the house...wondering if they sell any drinks.  I ask if they have beer and she says yes...don’t need to twist my arm - we’re stopping here. 

Well.....4 hours later, we’re still there.  Turns out they (Ines and Julian) built a summer house and also have 2 small cabanas for rent or you can pitch a tent in the yard.  And they rent canoes.  Ines invites us in, gives us a tour of her house and studio (she paints) and makes us feel very welcome.

We drink a huge beer (1 liter), then another, then she invites us to stay for an asado.  There’s a HUGE pile of meat ready to be put on the grill.  We meet others who are staying there; have stopped by for the day; or are friends of theirs. 

A couple hours later and more huge beers, then one of the guests carves one of the massive pieces of meat and is placing a piece on everybody’s plate.  As soon as we finish that piece, he moves onto cutting the next piece and serves us more, and this keeps going until all of the meat is gone.  There’s ONE bell pepper (they don’t eat many veggies here) and some potatoes.  A basic salad, some bread, cheese...and more beer. 

It was a day of hanging out with the locals.  It was like hanging out with friends at the river.  Ines in her black bikini and Julian in his swim trunks all day - you can see them in my Tigre’ pics. 

The journey home wasn’t as pleasant.  The train was packed and the number of people waiting for the next train was massive, so we decided to wait for a few more trains to pass.  Ok, another beer and papas fritas. 

Finally got on a train around 9:30pm and if it weren’t for the family with strollers in front of us, I’m pretty sure my face would be smashed into somebody’s armpit...or pretty close to it.  So yes, standing the whole way back.  More than half way home and we smell burning rubber....and smell it, and smell it.  We’re saying that it would be horrible to live in whatever city we were in and that smell couldn’t be good for the people.

We’re approaching a train station, the doors open and EVERYBODY EXITS THE TRAIN.  Not in a casual way either - like a mass exodus.  THE TRAIN IS ON FIRE.  No wonder it smelled!  So, more waiting for another train.

By the time we get to Buenos Aires, it’s 10:31...how do I know that - because the subway stops running at 10:30pm.  Really, in a city that doesn’t start eating dinner until 10 or 11, the subway stops at 10:30.  Geez.  Ok, gotta figure out which bus will get us close to home.  Finally got to my B&B at 11pm. 

CRAZY ending to a really FUN day.